Setapak Teochew Restaurant, KL

Setapak Teochew Restaurant in Titiwangsa

[Non-halal] Setapak Teochew Restaurant 文良港潮州餐室餅家 serves one of the best fried beehoon in town.

Located in Titiwangsa, this restaurant has been operating since 1912 – which is the year that RMS Titanic sank!

We first visited this restaurant six years ago and really enjoyed the Hokkien Mee and dishes here.

So does it still hold up through after all these years? The answer is – yes!

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Setapak Teochew Restaurant 文良港潮州餐室餅家

Opened for more than 113 years, Setapak Teochew Restaurant is currently operated by the fourth generation of the Ng family.

Stepping into the restaurant is like entering into a time capsule.

Occupying two shop lots on the busy Jalan Pahang, the shop has that old-school charms with a huge counter peddling traditional Chinese pastries, antique Chinese tables, and classic Chinese silk paintings 国画 that adorn the walls.

Aside from its dishes, Setapak Teochew Restaurant also sells traditional Chinese confectioneries.

The restaurant is particularly known for its Teochew mooncakes during the Mid-Autumn festival, but the traditonal tau sar piah (mung bean pastry) and other pastries are available all year round.

We tapau-ed the white and red mung bean pastries for home. Max particularly enjoyed the white filling as it reminded him of the biscuits he ate as a child with his Teochew amah. The filling was fragrant with just the right touch of sweetness, and the skin had a nice flaky texture.

Char beehoon is the best

Setapak Teochew Restaurant serves all types of noodles – but the Fried White Beehoon (RM13 for small) is the must-order, as evidenced by every occupied table we see here.

And we can understand why.

In comparison to the typical fried beehoon (aka char bee hoon) sold elsewhere, the stir-fried rice vermicelli here is served in its native white colour.

But don’t lets the colour fool you.

Despite the place colour, the dish is bursting with flavour with enough umami from dried shrimps, minced pork, onion and fish cakes. There’s even char bits that we enjoyed.

The addition of green chillies give a bit of spicy kick, and there’s a whole lotta wok hei!

This is probably the best char bee hoon on this side of town.

Hokkien Mee

We also really like the Hokkien Mee (RM12) here.

The noodles here are thicker than usual and do not have the kan sui (alkaline water) taste.

While we wished it had a bit more wok hei, the dish is very flavoursome with a good balance of savoury and sweetness, with plenty of crispy pork lards.

It does not contain the usual prawns – but has adequate fish balls and sliced pork for protein.

Fried fish cakes and fishballs

We also enjoyed the Fried Fish Cake (RM3) as it had a nice bouncy texture and adequate fish taste.

The Teochew Fishballs (RM12 for small) are served in a bowl of soup with choy sum. The fish balls are less bouncy than the commercialised versions, but had enough fish flavours.